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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.